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Victorian Jewelry

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Item: Description: Price:

MJ144

RARE HOPE ( Antique Victorian Mourning Art Framed Bone Figure ): I mainly collect, buy and sell Mourning Jewelry but this lovely carved Antique Bone figure of “Hope” caught my fancy. The Bible in 1st Corinthians 13:13 says “And now abideth faith, hope and charity, these three; but the greatest of these is charity.” The age old symbols for these virtues are a cross for “Faith”, an anchor for “Hope” and a heart for “Charity” or “Love”. I found this beautifully carved figure of “Hope” both lovely and moving. Notice her flowing cape and tiny toes. (c. 1860-80) Her hands are in the position of prayer. She is placed on deep red velvet over a metal sheathed cardboard disc fit into a gold metal sheathed oval wood frame. The inner lining of the frame is decoratively chased. The figure is safely placed under a dome of Celluloid. I'm sure there was once a cover over the back, and a large loop hanger, but someone has put in two small screws and a red string to hang it by. Loving large jewelry, I would probably add a wire and ring and wear it as a pendant. However you chose to display her, she would make a wonderful and unusual addition to any Victorian or Mourning collection.

Condition: Excellent. There is some wear to the gold metal frame which makes it look like antique gold. The backing is off, but could easily be replaced. The edges of the velvet appear worn. They probably shrunk over time.
Size: Frame 4” high, 3 1/2” wide. Figure 2” high, 1 1/4” wide.

SALE!

$400.00

SOLD!

VJ178

ARTS & CRAFTS POOL of LIGHT ( Art Nouveau/Arts & Crafts Jewelry Silver “Pool of Light” Necklace ): “Pools of Light” or “Gypsy beads”, as they are sometimes called, are clear quartz crystal orbs. A real treasure, this necklace from the Arts & Crafts period (c. 1920-30) holds a large silver caged sphere suspended from a long hand crafted silver chain. The practitioners of the Arts & Crafts Movement re-interpreted the past. In jewelry the intrinsic value of the materials was of secondary importance to design and workmanship. These “pools of light” are believed to be a product of Mount Fujiyama in Japan. When the mount erupted in springtime these crystal balls found their way into stream beds where over the years they were polished as they journeyed over pebbles into the foothill river beds. Finally they were polished to perfection in the lapidary shops of Kofu. Traditionally they have been treasured – especially by the Chinese who believe that luck resides in the inner recesses of these orbs. “Pools” were never drilled because it was believed that drilling allowed the good luck to pour out of the crystal. The supply of these wonderful crystals seemed to exhaust itself in the 1930’s. This silver link, ball and wirework designed chain slips over your head and has a spring ring that attaches to the pool of light. A wonderfully versatile necklace, you can take off the orb and use the chain it to wear another pendant or wear the crystal orb alone. It is difficult to photograph these pools – they appear grayish in photos. Against the skin, or other hues, they take on a rainbow of guises. Alive with vibrancy of another era, I can picture Isadora Duncan wearing this necklace as she danced in the moonlight. A special treasure for a special lady. You will love it!

Condition: Excellent.
Size: Orb is 1” in diameter, chain is 31” long.
SALE!

$650.00

$400.00

VJ215

PANSY FOR PASSION ( Victorian Jewelry Garnet Brooch / Pin ): Garnet is the birth stone for January, but desired by all collectors of Victorian Jewelry. Some believe that garnets empower the wearer with truth, constancy and faith. In the Victorian “language of flowers” the pansy expresses the sentiment “think of me” and was often given as a token of love. They are also said to enrich the blood and provide the wearer with a long and happy life. To me the rich deep red color of glittering garnets suggests a passion for the past. Set with faceted Bohemian garnets, this Antique Pansy Pin is both simple and stunning. (c. 1860-80) Two different sizes of faceted garnets are set in a vermeil (rose gold wash over silver) with each of the five pansy petals gently curved. The larger garnets are set where each petal attaches to the stem. A single large garnet surrounded by tiny shiny metal globes represents the pistil of the blossom. The elongated pin stem & C clasp are original to the piece. Bring the past into your present. If you have been wanting an Antique Garnet Brooch for yourself or need a thoughtful gift – now is the time to purchase this distinctive glittering garnet pansy. The price is right, so don’t wait!

Condition: Excellent. No missing stones.
Size: 1 3/8" high, 1 1/4" wide, 1/4" deep.
SALE!

$450.00

$250.00

VJ131

SHIMMERING BLUE BELLE ÉPOQUE ( Edwardian Jewelry Guilloché Locket ): This superb Edwardian shimmering blue guilloché locket is simply the largest and most stunning piece of its kind that I have seen. (c. 1890-1920) Only a confident lady of the Belle Époque era would have worn this large Sterling Silver Stunner. The technique of guilloché enamel features an engraved decoration of geometric design achieved by engine turning. When used as a base for translucent enamel it creates a shimmering effect. The intense deep blue of this locket provides an opulent background for the “garland style” – hand painted pink and pale yellow roses that circle the border of this oval antique locket. Swags of leaves have been painted above the central bouquet of mixed roses. There are tiny gold dot accents on the locket front. The back of the locket is also deep blue enamel over a wave pattern emanating from the center. The good sized pendant ring is marked “935 M” and the pendant itself is jeweler tested as Sterling. The locket interior contains its original inserts and celluloid covers, which have yellowed with time. The hinged closure is firm and tight. These guilloché lockets have become a favorite with collectors. The more complex the design and the more colors used, the more highly the piece is valued. This rich and sumptuous locket will linger in your mind. It is an unforgettable example of Belle Époque extravagance.

Condition: Excellent. A few surface scratches visible only under magnification.
Size: 2 1/4” high, 1 3/4” wide.
SALE!

$650.00

$400.00

VJ207

A PASSION FOR THE PAST ( Victorian Jewelry Garnet Pin / Pendant ): Garnet is the birthstone for January, but desired by all collectors of Victorian Jewelry. The stone received its name from the Latin word for pomegranate because it reminded early scientists of pomegranate seeds. The 19th Century was the peak of Bohemian Garnet Jewelry mined from the mountains of Bohemia. Placed closely together the garnets produce a brighter and deeper color than when set singularly. Glittering Garnets dance across the surface of this multi-layered Victorian Brooch. (c. 1860-80) Set with five tiers of different sizes and shapes of garnets, this wonderful brooch also acts as a pendant. There is a hinged triangular shaped bale with an O-ring in it so that the pendant will lie correctly when you hang it from a chain. I like it worn this way because it produces a marquise shape. As a brooch it is more of an oval. More interesting in its design than many garnet pieces, it seems fresher and more fascinating to the modern eye. The gems are all closed back and, as is characteristic for this type of jewelry, have been set in gilt gold over silver – referred to as “garnet gold”. On the back the elongated pin stem has been shortened and a safety clasp added. During the Victorian era Western cultures believed that garnets would enrich the blood and provide the wearer with a long and healthy life. To me the rich deep wine red color of garnets suggests a passion for the past. Bring the past into your present. If you have been wanting an Antique Garnet Pin or Pendant for yourself or need a loving gift – now it the time to purchase this distinctive multi-functional Glittering Garnet treasure.

Condition: Excellent. No missing stones. The chain is not included.
Size: As a pendant – 2” high, 1 1/2" wide, 1/2” deep.
SALE!

$450.00

$250.00

VJ217

AMOROUS AMPHORAE ( Vintage Victorian Style Jewelry Faux Tortoiseshell Urn Earrings ): I was thrilled when I first saw this pair of what I thought was a pair of aristocratic and beautiful Antique Amphora Urn Tortoiseshell Earrings. A more experienced collector agreed that they were very lovely and looked like the antique urn-shaped earrings that are so sought after, but I should look at them against a light since some were made of a resin and did not have the various gold, amber and brown shapes and colors seen in true tortoiseshell. A lesson well learned! By the 1860’s, Revivalism was in full swing. Women were wearing Etruscan-style amulets and other “classical” ornaments. The “Grand Period” of Victorian style had begun. Tortoiseshell emerged as a popular jewelry material. These elegant faux tortoiseshell earrings in the shape of amphorae urns are suspended from a resin tortoiseshell ring and have gold shepherd’s hook ear wires. The popular amphora shape is derived from an ancient Greco-Roman handled urn with a tapered base. Highly desired by collectors, this style of earrings are a reminder of the simple and classical beauty produced by Victorian artisans. Despite these being Faux Tortoiseshell, they look great and are much less expensive than the real thing. Your friends will never know!

Condition: Excellent
Size: 1 5/8” long, 7/16” wide. Amphora is fully rounded.

SALE!

$200.00

$125.00

BN055

REGAL AFRICAN QUEEN ( Vintage Bone Black African Jewelry Pin / Brooch): I am pleased to offer this dramatic hand carved bone brooch of a handsome African Woman. (c. 1920) It has been in my personal collection of ethnic jewelry for years. The lavish and intricate carving make this bone brooch almost as valuable one carved from ivory. Notice the fine work on her hair style and the magnificent jewelry she wears, including her grand earrings. This brooch was sold to me as a French piece but it could well be African due to the amount of detail in costume and hair style. You can clearly see the distinctive bone markings on the back of this portrait of a Black Woman. There is a riveted C clasp closure original to the piece. Outstanding in its entirety, this timeless beauty is extravagant in its size and workmanship. A “killer” brooch – wearing it will make you feel like a Queen!

Condition: Excellent. No chips.
Size: 2 ¾” high, 1 ¾” wide ¼” deep.
SALE!

$275.00

$195.00

VJ204

MANIA FOR ALL THINGS JAPANESE ( Victorian Jewelry Aesthetic Silver Locket ): This beautiful Sterling Silver Locket (c. 1880) contains all of the traits of the aesthetic movement. Simplicity was the keynote to all design: an economy of line, perfectly spaced composure and just one carefully observed individual characteristic of each leaf, flower and bird were all the elements needed to create the atmosphere and aesthetic beauty that so intoxicated Europe and the West. The mania for all things Japanese was on. Large silver lockets and wide bracelets were the most successful pieces to convey the most desired “look”. On the cover of this locket you can see engraved bamboo and fern-like foliage, some slightly bending to the gentle gusts of wind. To add a touch of color, an appliqué of gold wash rests on the surface of the delicate butterfly and the two birds perched on fine branches. There is a wonderful large bale to add a chain and the edges of the locket are grooved on both the front and back of the locket. The back is marked “STERLING”. To own a locket of this Japanese style will give you delight as you describe what the change of style and ornamentation meant to the history of jewelry. (Be sure to mention that the first pieces of “Japonaiserie” were made by the men who hand ornamented Samurai swords until swords were outlawed by the government.)

Condition: Excellent. The locket snaps closed very securely. The inside is empty.
Size: 2 1/4" high including bale, 1 1/2" wide, 1/4" deep.

SALE!

$500.00

$425.00

VJ210

LADIES LUXURY LENSES ( Art Nouveau Jewelry Sterling Silver Lorgnette / Pendant ): Particularly popular in the 19th Century, lorgnettes – a pair of lenses with a handle – were used as fashion accessories, as well as optical aids, by upper class ladies. They were commonly seen at the opera (the forebear of today's opera glasses) and worn on a long neck chain to aid the mistress of the house in reading. This lovely Antique Sterling Silver Lorgnette is a fashion statement (no power in the lenses) – but an unusually elegant one. Its silver case is decorated with two intricately and sinuously intertwined snakes in whiplash curves – typically seen in the Art Nouveau era (1890-1910). It was undoubtedly worn on a chain or ribbon around the neck as a pendant, as well as opened for show. Looking closely you will see the open mouths of the snakes with tongues and fangs at each end. The centrally located thistles probably make these Scottish snakes. The pattern is the same front and back. The small lever on the side releases a spring hinge allowing the folded lenses to swing out. A spring between the lenses opens them up into a pair of glasses. Another rare and beautiful item for your collection.

Condition: Excellent. In good working condition. Your optician could easily add power to the lenses should you desire. Chain not included.
Size: 4 3/4” long, 1 1/4” wide, 1/2” deep. Lenses when open 4” wide, 1 1/8” high.
SALE!
$450.00

$300.00

VJ194

SPARKLING PYRAMID OF GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Bohemian Garnet Brooch / Pendant): Garnet is the birth stone for January, but desired by all collectors of Victorian Jewelry. The stone received its name from the Latin word for pomegranate because it reminded early scientists of pomegranate seeds. The 19th Century was the peak of Bohemian Garnet Jewelry – mined from the mountains of Bohemia (present-day western Czech Republic). Placed closely together, the garnets produced a brighter and a deeper color than when set singularly. So it is with this fiery Victorian Antique Brooch, set with a marvelous raised cluster of garnets upon garnets. (c. 1870) Oval in form, the deep wine garnet stones are placed in a tier six layers deep, producing a highly domed effect of brilliantly flashing garnets. All of the stones are faceted and appear in four different sizes. The pendant/brooch still retains its original circular drop. The circular, free swinging drop is a beautiful accent to this large piece. The gems are all closed back and, as is characteristic for this type of jewelry, have all been set into rose gold gilt over silver (commonly referred to as “garnet gold”). The reverse of this brooch/pendant must have an interesting history. At some time the elongated pin stem has been shortened and the original C clasp has a “capped” housing for the tip of the pin so that it will not catch or pull on fabric if worn as a pendant. There is also a hinged pendant loop added at the top – so many ladies now prefer pendants. You would need to add a ring or bale to make this piece hang properly from a chain. During the Victorian era, Western cultures believed that garnets would enrich the blood and provide the wearer with a long & healthy life. Highly coveted by collectors, this is a dazzling, sparkling example of antique garnet jewelry at its best.

Condition: Excellent. There are no missing garnets. One or two of the small ones may be replacements.
Size: 2 1/4" long, including drop, 1 1/2" wide, 1/2" deep.
SALE!

$550.00

$350.00

VJ093A.jpg (30524 bytes)

VJ093

CARNELIAN PROMISE OF HOPE ( Victorian Jewelry Scottish Brooch/Pendant ): To the Victorians, the Anchor was a symbol of Hope, an emotion that provided a refuge from the travails of living in a time when death was always near. Faith (Cross), Hope (Anchor) and Charity (Heart) was an extremely popular Victorian motif found in all types of jewelry. This large Antique Carnelian and Sterling Silver Anchor Brooch (c. 1860) is an outstanding example of the Scottish style that Queen Victoria loved so well. The carved carnelian part of the cross is beautifully striated when held up to the light. The silver portions of the brooch are delicately engraved and a twisted silver rope coils itself around the anchor. The original pin stem has been replaced with a shorter version and with the addition of the ring at the top, this anchor brooch becomes a lovely pendant. The C clasp closure is original. Such a bold statement look will always be a fashion favorite. Condition: Excellent. Size: 3 1/4” long, 1 5/8” wide. SALE!

$250.00

ON HOLD!

VJ189

THE SHIMMER & SPARKLE OF GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Garnet Brooch / Pin ): The history and mystery of garnets is part of their charm. This stone received its name from the Latin word for pomegranate because it reminded early gemologists of pomegranate seeds. During the Victorian era Western cultures believed that garnets would enrich the blood and provide the wearer with a long and healthy life. Glittering garnets dance across the surface of this multi-layered early Victorian Brooch. (c. 1830-60) The deep wine red garnets are faceted to refract sheer brilliance and their radiance and glow is simply luscious. Unlike many flat garnet designs, this antique brooch is composed of multi-leveled tiers of sparkling and varied sized garnets. The entire top portion of the brooch is domed with a sparkling drop suspended at the bottom. The central bezel set cabochon oval garnet is surrounded by a starburst of tiny white pearls, each set in its individual tiny “petal”. The floral shaped drop also has a tiny pearl at its center. A very unusual design that adds elegance and refinement to the brooch. The gems are all closed back and, as is characteristic for this type of jewelry, have all been set into rose gold gilt over silver – commonly called “garnet gold”. There is an early replacement C clasp closure and a pin stem replacement. If you have been wanting a special piece of garnet jewelry, you cannot do better than this – the essence of Victorian style.

Condition: Excellent. All stones and pearls are original.
Size: With dangle 2" high, 2”wide, 3/8" deep. Dangle is 5/8” long, 3/8” wide. Center cabochon is 5/8” wide, 3/8” high.
SALE!

$400.00

$250.00

VJ117A.JPG (42093 bytes)

VJ117

RIBBONS OF WHITE ENAMEL OVER GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Garnet Earrings ): These feminine and appealing garnet earrings convey the essence of the Mid-Victorian Grand Period. (c. 1870) Complex in design, rich in color, these tear drop shaped earrings are 18KT gold with white enamel accents. The gold drop base is hollow – you can see the 2 tiny holes on the back – which makes them very light weight. A delicate studded rope border frames the bezel set cabochon garnet. A beautiful and unusual oval cut red-purple rhodolite garnet forms the centerpiece of each earring. The raised ribbon-like motifs above the garnet feature finely executed white enamel accented with gold stripes. The 14KT gold shepherd’s hook ear wires have been added over the years. In the Language of Gemstones, garnets have always represented fidelity and virtue. Garnets are the birth stone of ladies born in January, but remain highly popular every month of the year. Condition: Excellent. Size: 1 5/8” long, 5/8” wide, 1/4” deep. SALE!

$425.00

$300.00

VJ197

RULER OF THE SKIES ( Victorian Jewelry Eagle & Diamond Brooch / Watch Pin / Pendant ): Perceived as the ruler of the skies, the eagle rises above the earth and soars to the heavens. Superbly crafted in 18KT yellow gold, this ethereal eagle brooch shows the symbolic bird with wings spread in flight, feathers carefully detailed, each one overlapping the other. (c. 1880 - 1900) His face, beak and eyes are masterfully rendered in three dimensions, his mighty talons seem ready to catch any unsuspecting prey. His powerful beak firmly grasps a prong set diamond that is free swinging. Perhaps the bright and shiny diamond is the prey his keen eye caught sight of as he surveyed his domain. The strength and majesty of the independent eagle are reasons why it was chosen as the symbol of the birth of our new nation – the United States of America! (Benjamin Franklin wanted the turkey – thank goodness he was overruled.) You can wear this elegant eagle as a brooch, a watch pin or even as a pendant. On the back there is a nice C clasp closure with a point guard for tip of pin, a hook to suspend a companion piece and the wing tips have tiny rings where a chain could be attached. Birds were an image that nature minded Victorians coveted. This magical creature is timeless as he defines the past, present and the future.

Condition: Excellent.
Size: Wing tip to wing tip 2 1/2", 1” high, 1/2" deep. The diamond has not been removed for carat size. (Medium)
SALE!

$550.00

$325.00

 

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