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Victorian Jewelry  

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Item: Description: Price:


TORTOISESHELL DOVE with PIQUÉ INLAY: This is probably the most beautiful Piqué decorated item I have owned. The precious Victorian Dove Brooch (c. 1870's) is made of Tortoiseshell. Piqué is by definition gold and/or silver inlaid into another material, such as Ivory or Tortoiseshell. By the mid-19th Century, this beautiful art found renewed popularity as a decoration for jewelry. The doves wings, tail and neck are covered with mostly gold piqué decorated to look like feathers. The gray appearing piqué in all 3 areas is silver piqué. It has the original C clasp pin back. Just the right size for your collar.

Condition: Excellent. The piqué is all intact.
Size: 2 1/2” long, 1 1/4” wide, 1/8” deep.



LILY-of-the-VALLEY BRACELET: This amazing stretch Victorian bone bracelet (c. 1850-70) is an exquisite example of the art of Victorian carving. Every little bell shaped flower is captured with life-like detail. The Victorian language of flowers reached its peak during the reign of Queen Victoria (1837 - 1901) when flowers became a form of communication between lovers and friends. This bracelet conveys the message “return to happiness” and “you have made my life complete”. These delicate blossoms are one of the early signs that spring has returned once again. And don't we need that after this dreadful past year. May this bracelet help brighten this new year for you.

Condition: Excellent. Was restrung somewhere along the way. Will easily stretch over your hand.
Size: Front panel 2 1/4” high, 1 1/4” wide, 3/4” deep. Back segments vary from 7/8” high to 3/4” high. Inner circumference 6 3/4”



SCOTTISH HORN VINAIGRETTE PENDANT: Vinaigrette's were small containers with a sponge to be soaked in scented vinaigres de toilette (aromatic vinegar). They were made to be convenient to carry on trips or outings primarily during the late Georgian and Regency periods (1825-37). This Scottish Pendant is made from horn with faceted citrines at both ends and a shield on the front. The cap on the large end opens to gold compartment with a tiny sponge in it (yes, it is still there) underneath a perforated grill. The Sterling Silver caps are deeply engraved. It hangs from a silver chain with a large ring bale.

Condition: Excellent.
Size: Total height 3 “. Horn portion 2 5/8” wide, 1 1/2” high, 1/2” deep at cap.



LION TOOTH NECKLACE: This is for you men out there. It is a Victorian Era Ethiopian Men's Power Necklace. It provides the wearer with strength and virility. It consists of a Sterling Silver beaded necklace with 6 large silver capped lion teeth hanging from it and a Maria Theresa thaler coin. Following the 1780 death of Maria Theresa, Archduchess of Austria, the coin was always dated 1780. It was know to have circulated in Ethiopia in the 17 & 1800's. The necklace has a large hook and ring closure.

Condition: Very good. Coin is worn.
Size: Total length 21”. Teeth 2 3/4” - 3 1/4” long tip to cap, 1/2” - 5/8” deep. Coin 1 5/8” in diameter.



SCOTTISH AGATE BROOCH: Here I have a lovely blue-gray Banded Agate Brooch (c. 1870-80) in the familiar Scottish belt and buckle shape. Every segment has its own unique pattern of banding. The agate is in an engraved Sterling Silver setting with engraved silver buckle and belt tip. It has a C clasp pin back. It goes very nicely with the agate bracelet below (VJ322).

Condition: Excellent.
Size: Circular part 2 1/4” in diameter, total height with buckle 2 3/8”, 3/8” deep.



SCOTTISH AGATE BRACELET: This a lovely mostly blue-gray Banded Agate Bracelet (c. 1870-80) with clover shaped links and a flower petal shape in the center of various brighter colors All are set in Sterling Silver with a large hook and ring closure. It goes very nicely with the agate brooch above (VJ321).

Condition: Excellent.
Size: Total length 7 1/8”. Centerpiece 1” in diameter. , 1/4” deep. Links 3/4” by 3/4”.



DAY & NIGHT PENDANT: The romantic Victorians loved the subjects “Day” and “Night”. This is an exquisite small painting of the ancient goddesses Day (Eos/Aurora) and Night (Nyx/Nox) which I had converted into a large pendant. On the left is Day dressed in a golden gown spreading blossoms and on the right is Night dressed in a gray gown, riding in a golden chariot and holding 2 doves. The painting is signed “H. Leirrt”. The 14 KT gold setting consists of 3 rings of tiny seed pearls, a large pearl drop and a large gold bale. The gold paper backing is original to the painting.

Condition: Excellent. (Chain not included)
Size: Total length 4 3/8”. Diameter of painting including setting 2 7/8”, depth 3/16”.



CUT STEEL PINWHEEL BROOCH: This glittering Cut Steel Brooch (1850-60) is a magnificent example of this Georgian and Victorian art form. Cut steel jewelry is set with minute steel studs which have been faceted and polished to a high sheen. Each small cut steel bead is individually riveted onto a metal backing plate. The tiny riveted pieces are densely set in pavé fashion. In candlelight it can pass for true diamonds. The top portion is a 3-dimensional pin wheel with 3 large dangles and 2 small ones. It has its original C clasp pin back.

Condition: Excellent
Size: Total length 3 5/8”. Diameter of pinwheel 1 7/8”, depth 1/2”. Dangles 1 1/2” long.



VICTORIAN SCARAB BRACELET: Following the 1869 opening of the Suez Canal all things Egyptian soared in popularity – including jewelry. This was the beginning of the Victorian Egyptian Revival Era. The lovely shiny green Scarab Beetle – a symbol of immortality, resurrection, transformation and protection in the ancient Egyptian religion – became one of the favored items used in that jewelry. This wonderful rare Scarab Bracelet (c. 1870's) is made up of 11 natural Scarab Beetles set in gold fill with a tongue in groove closure. What is amazing is the pristine condition of all 11 Scarabs after 150 years!

Condition: Excellent.
Size: 7 1/4” long, 1/2” wide, 3/16” high.



GOOD vs EVIL BROOCH: The subject matter displays the invading serpent (evil) seeking to steal a baby bird (good) for his meal as the parent birds fight him off. This small bone masterpiece has truly amazing carving. Note the scaled body of the serpent entwined around the tree branch – and the detail of the birds and every tiny twig – everything 3 dimensional! It has its original C clasp pin back.

Condition: Excellent
Size: 2 3/4” wide, 1 1/2” high, 1/2” deep.



GARNET LOCKET: Victorians were extremely fond of garnet jewelry - and pieces that were versatile are particularly desired by collectors. This gorgeous Victorian Bohemian Garnet Locket / Brooch with a dangling Watch Pin has it all! (c. 1890) The glittering garnets are bright, lively, deep red colored with a flower-like design. The slightly lighter and elevated petals surround a large central faceted stone which itself is surrounded by 8 small tear shaped faceted stones. The central stone is encircled by tiny seed pearls which also run down the center of each petal. On the back of the pin, the hinged glass cover lifts easily and provides a place to hold a photo or a lock of hair. The brooch has its original C clasp pin back. The matching watch pin can be easily removed if desired.

Condition: Excellent
Size: Total length 3”. Brooch 1 7/8” long, 1 1/2” wide, 1/2” deep at central stone. Watch pin 3/4” long, 1 3/4” wide, 1/8” deep.



SAINT PETER'S SQUARE: This splendid brooch (c. 1860-70) bears a lovely 3-dimensional Micro-Mosaic portrait of St. Peter's Square in Rome. I always gaze in amazement at these diminutive works of art. Made of tiny glass pieces, the minuscule shards of glass blend together to form a complex and subtle scene of great artistry. It is set in reddish-brown Goldstone (a type of glass) – our photos do not come near capturing its glittering beauty. The goldstone in turn sits in a decorative gold setting. It has a C clasp closure.

Condition: Excellent. Not a single shard is missing.
Size: 2” wide, 1 3/4” high, 3/8” deep.



PEACOCK EYE BRACELET: The Arts and Crafts Movement (1880-1920) rebelled against the excesses of Victorian ornamentation. In jewelry this meant the intrinsic value of the materials was secondary to design and workmanship – preferring hand crafted stones such as Peacock Eyes to precious stones such as diamonds. And silver was preferred over gold. The 8 Peacock Eye stones in this bracelet are made of glass containing glowing green foil in the periphery and shimmering blue foil in the center – all are set in Sterling Silver. It has a tongue in groove closure.

Condition: Excellent.
Size: 6 3/4” long, 3/8” wide, 1/4” deep.



MRS. FITZHERBERT (Antique Georgian Portrait Miniature Pendant): This is the prize of my Portrait Miniature Collection. Mary Ann (Maria) Fitzherbert (1756-1837) was the morganic wife (unequal social rank) of King George IV of England. The twice widowed 27 yo met George, Prince of Wales, in 1784 when he was 22. They were married in 1785 but it was never made public because she was a Catholic. They separated in 1795 but rejoined in 1796 until 1803. She then retired to Brighton and lived quietly until her death in 1837. George IV, king from 1820 to 1830, was buried with a portrait miniature of Maria as per his will. I was only able to afford to purchase this portrait miniature (c. 1800) because it lacks provenance, however I purchased it from a prominent portrait miniature dealer who vouched for it and the likeness to the portrait of a younger Maria (blue background) painted by Richard Cosway around 1789 and one from the Twickenham Museum in London is obvious. (see photos) I am posting it for considerably less than my purchase price. It is in a simple gold setting however the reverse is made of valuable antique Cobalt Blue Glass over foil. I'm sure it was made to hang on a wall or to be carried in a king's inner pocket but, of course, I added a bale and wore it as a pendant.

Condition: Excellent. Chain not included.
Size: 3 1/8” diameter, 1/4” deep.





PEACOCK EYE RING (Antique Arts and Crafts Peacock Eye Ring): As of the end of this year all the Peacock Eye jewelry made during the Arts and Crafts Period (1880-1920) is truly antique. The Arts and Crafts Movement rebelled against the excesses of Victorian ornamentation. In jewelry this meant the intrinsic value of of the materials was secondary to design and workmanship – preferring hand crafted stones such as Peacock Eyes to precious stones such as diamonds. And silver was preferred over gold. These stones are made of glass containing glowing green foil in the periphery and shimmering blue foil in the center. The large central Cabochon Peacock Eye is surrounded by 6 seed pearls and 2 small faceted emeralds (probably blue glass) – all set in the gilded silver ring.

Condition: Excellent. Gilding worn from back of ring and ring band. Not visible when worn.
Size: Face 1” in diameter, 1/2” deep. Peacock Eye stone 3/4” in diameter. Ring band 3/16” wide. Ring size 6 ¼.





GOLD BOUQUET LOCKET (Antique Victorian Gold Locket / Pendant): This Gold Locket decorated with a Bouquet of 3 Golden Flowers (c. 1890-1900) is breathtakingly beautiful. Each of the 3 blossoms is a different color – rose gold on the left, light yellow gold on the right and a darker yellow gold above. The 2 leaves peaking out at the upper left are a very feint yellow gold. The basket is rose gold with a silver band (probably white gold) around the middle and around the top. The basket and the bouquet are both 3 dimensional. They are strikingly set on black enamel. The decoratively engraved frame on the front, along with the back and the bale are all rose gold with the bale marked “14CT”. The locket is empty. It closes firmly should you wish to put anything in it. This Gold Bouquet makes a glorious pendant.

Condition: Excellent. Chain not included.
Size: Total length 1 3/4”. Locket 1 3/8” long, 1 1/2” wide, 1/2” deep.





POOLS of LIGHT EARRINGS (Vintage Art Deco Pools of Light Earrings ): Sleek and ethereal, these earrings consist of fabulous crystal orbs known as “pools of light”. It is believed that the source of these beads is the northern slope of Mount Fujiyama in Japan. They were a product of the mount when it erupted in springtime. The crystals then found their way into the stream beds where, over the years, they were polished as they journeyed over pebbles into the foothill river beds. Finally they were polished to perfection in the lapidary shops of Kofu. These are unusual in having buffed flat “dots” of various sizes which add to their glimmering as they dangle from your ears. They possess the unusual optical quality of rotary polarization – when you look through one the image will appear to be upside down and reversed (rotated 180 degrees). Traditionally they have been treasured – especially by the Chinese who believe that good luck resides in the inner recesses of these orbs. “Pools” were never drilled because it was believed that drilling allowed the good luck to pour out of the crystal. The supply of these wonderful crystals seems to have exhausted itself in the 1930’s. These Sterling Silver Earrings from the 1920's are delightful. They hang from Sterling Silver rods attached to screw backs. The orbs have fancy silver caps at their attachment to a wire surrounding each globe. The timeless beauty of these earrings dances with the light. Highly sought-after by collectors – there will be no more mysterious “Pools of Light”.

Condition: Excellent.
Size: Length 2 1/4”. Crystal orb 3/4” in diameter.




PEACOCK EYE EARRINGS ( Vintage Freirich Peacock Eye Clip Earrings ): These gorgeous Peacock Eye Earrings have the appearance of the Art Nouveau Era Jewelry (1890-1910) which moved from the academic art of the 19th Century to the curved lines of plants and flowers. However they are signed “Freirich”, a company under the name Maison David in France, which was not moved to the US under the Freirich name until the 1920's. The gleaming Peacock Eye Cabochon Stones are made of glass and shimmering blue and green foil – imitating the appearance of the Eyes on Peacock Tail Feathers. They are mounted in beautifully curved low carat gold settings with clips on which I have put new pads. Though not a perfect match with the above Peacock Eye Necklace (VJ290), they go very nicely with it. Add glamour to glamour!

Condition: Excellent.
Size: 1” high, 1 1/8” wide, 1/4” deep.





PENDANT of the CROSS ( Victorian Mourning Jewelry Hair Cross Pendant ): This is a simple, yet poignant, Victorian Mourning Jewelry Cross. (c. 1870) The cross is made up of 4 table-worked ovals of dark brown hair with gold caps at each end and a gold shield in the center engraved with the initials “MH”. It is most likely a Mourning Memento worn by a woman in memory of her spouse. It has a simple gold ring as its bale.

Condition: Excellent (Chain not included)
Size: 1 7/8” high, 1 1/4” wide, 1/4” deep.





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