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Victorian Jewelry  

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Item: Description: Price:

VJ285

  EGYPTIAN REVIVAL SCARAB JEWELRY SET ( Vintage Scarab Necklace, Bracelet & Earrings Set ): Following the 1922 discovery of the tomb of King Tutankhamen by British explorer, Howard Carter, all things Egyptian soared in popularity – including jewelry. The lovely shiny green Scarab Beetle – a symbol of immortality, resurrection, transformation and protection in the ancient Egyptian religion – became one of the favored items used in that jewelry. Manoah Rhodes established his very successful silversmith and jewelry company in Bradford, England in 1836. He died in 18881 and his sons converted the company to “Manoah Rhodes & Sons, Ltd.” (as seen inside this box) in 1888. Their hallmark “Watch Makers to the Admiralty” around an anchor was used in the 1920's. I was lucky enough to find this complete necklace, bracelet and earrings set of Scarab Jewelry set in beautifully decorated low carat gold in its original box at the Miami Beach Antique Show. Each Scarab has an engraved gold cap making it look like an acorn. Every other one is set on a decorative gold leaf. All have small gold orbs at their base. The Scarabs on the necklace and bracelet are held together by gold chains with beautifully engraved gold tongue in groove clasps. The earrings hang from shepherd hooks for pierced ears. The velvet base of the green faux snake-skin covered wooden box is molded to hold each piece of jewelry firmly in place. It has a padded satin lid with the name and hallmark on it. This set has been one of my true treasures. Make it yours.

Condition: Jewelry excellent. Wood box moderate wear but provides good protection and has a tight clasp.
Size: Necklace 16” long, Each scarab around 3/4” long, 1/2” wide. Bottom leaf hangs 1 3/4” long, 1” wide. Bracelet 6 3/4” long. Center leaf 1 1/4” long, 1” wide. Earrings 2 3/8” long, 7/8” wide.

ON HOLD!

VJ286

  MARY BAKER EDDY BROOCH ( Antique Victorian Gold Photo Brooch / Pin ): I envy Mary Baker Eddy (1821-1910) who established the Church of Christ, Scientist and founded Christian Science – not because of her fame and achievements but because of the fantastic Gold Antique Brooch which holds her photo. You can see the woman's hand at the bottom holding a fan which can be opened and closed. The 14 KT gold setting, along with the hand and fan, are decorated with engraving and black enamel. The fan is held open by a tiny latch on the left side of the frame and closes by a spring. Hanging below are gold wire loops and three golden dangles. There is an empty compartment in the back which could hold a lock of hair. Both it and the photo have glass covers. Not only did Eddy write “Science and Health with Key to the Scriptures” (a best seller for decades) along with several other books, she also founded the global newspaper the “Christian Science Monitor” (winner of 7 Pulitzer Prizes) at the age of 87. She was inducted into the National Women's Hall of Fame in 1995. She was a true Hero of Faith.

Condition: Excellent
.Size: 3 1/8” long including dangles. Photo containing brooch 1 7/8” high, 1 5/8” wide, 1/2” deep over the fan.

$500.00

VJ287

  ROYALTY OF THE RAJ ( Antique Victorian Tiger Claw Brooch / Pin ): This large and beautifully set Victorian Tiger Claw Brooch (c 1880-90) is the last, and one of the finest, of what was my quite sizable Tiger Claw Jewelry collection. In 1876 Queen Victoria was proclaimed Empress of India. That British period of rule, from 1858 until 1947, has come to be known as the British Raj and it has gifted us with an exotic legacy – the style of jewelry known as Raj. The “Great White Hunters” made their mark on fashion by sending home claws and teeth set in gold as mementos of their hunting expertise. At that time there was no concern that the seemingly endless supply of birds and animals would ever become endangered. This beauty is literally “crowned” in a 15 KT gold crown shaped cap decorated with 5 seed pearls, engraving inside 4 gold circles and 7 vibrant natural dark blue sapphires. A gold sheath extends down the front to a fancy engraved gold point. The claw is held in place by a gold band containing 6 seed pearls. The pin back has the original C clasp. Judging from the size, quality and decorations I would guess the “great white hunter” who brought this beauty back to his lady was of quite high rank. Now it can be yours.

Condition: Excellent. Very minimal drying of claw.
Size: 1 3/4” high, 1 3/4” wide, 1/4” deep.

SOLD!

VJ288

  FLORAL CROSS & NECKLACE ( Antique Victorian Carved Bone Cross Pendant & Beaded Necklace ): This delicately carved bone cross is a floral fantasy – the finest I have owned. The cross itself is covered with Forget-me-Nots meaning true and faithful love in the Victorian Language of Flowers. The wreath hanging over the cross is made up of Oak Leaves and Acorns. Oak trees indicate power, survival and ancient wisdom – Acorns life and immortality. And, of course, the cross itself is a sign of the Christian Faith. It has a nice soft patina. You can see the grain on the close-up of the back of the cross. It hangs from a necklace made up of 3 strands of carved bone beads. At the end is a gold ribbed ball and a tongue in buckle clasp which is fairly easy to hook by yourself. A glorious pendant – both beautiful and meaningful.

Condition: Excellent. I examined with a loop and can see no broken tips.
Size: Cross 3” long, 2” wide, 3/8” deep. Pendant with bale 3 3/4” long. Necklace 18 1/2” long.

$600.00

VJ289

  SERPENT OF ETERNAL LOVE ( Antique Victorian Tortoiseshell Piqué Snake Brooch / Pin ): Many of you already know of my love for Victorian Snake Jewelry. This gorgeous entwined Tortoiseshell Snake (c. 1860-70) from my personal collection is the most elegant one I have owned. The snake represents Eternal Love in Victorian Jewelry. The engagement ring that Prince Albert gave to Queen Victoria was in the shape of a serpent. This snake, holding a tortoiseshell heart, is decorated in piqué – both gold and silver. Piqué is a decorative technique where a precious metal or mother-of-pearl is inlaid to form a pattern. It originated in Italy in the mid-1600's, was developed in France and peaked in popularity in the 1850's to 1880's It was most commonly used on tortoiseshell in the Victorian era. Our snake has a stripe of gold piqué down its back from head to tail. It is delicately engraved with cross-hatches giving the appearance of scales. Rows of tiny gold dots are inlaid along each side of the stripe, ending in larger gold dots as the eyes. The head has a diamond shaped silver inlay decorated with dots. The heart has a gold stripe around its edge and a decorative pattern of gold dots with a gold and silver bullseye in the center. The brooch has its original long stemmed C clasp pin back. I really want this snake to find a loving new home.

Condition: Excellent. See photos of the beautiful tortoiseshell colors and close-ups of the piqué.
Size: 3” wide, 2 1/8” high, 1/2” deep.

ON HOLD!

VJ290

  PEACOCK EYE NECKLACE ( Vintage Hattie Carnegie Peacock Eye Chocker Necklace ): I have always loved the brilliantly colored Peacock Eye Jewelry, popularized in the Arts & Crafts / Art Deco era as a rebellion against the excesses of Victorian ornamentation. They are made of glass cabochon stones containing blue and green glimmering foil giving the appearance of the Eyes seen on Peacock Feathers. This was one of my very favorites – a Hattie Carnegie Bib or Chocker Necklace with the Peacock Eyes held in place and surrounded by broad gold colored metal chains. The Eyes in the upper row have small faceted navette shaped black glass stones on each side and the lower 3 have small faceted round black stones. It has a hook in chain closure allowing 2 3/4” variability in length. Hattie Carnegie started her fashion business in NYC in 1909 and built it into a countrywide fashion empire. Her iconic jewelry was adored by Hollywood stars. Own your own Hattie Carnegie hallmarked piece of Hollywood glamour!

Condition: Excellent.
Size: Necklace length 14 3/4” to 17 1/2” long. Bib 2” wide in front. Peacock Eyes 5/8” long and 3/8” wide in upper row, slightly larger in lower row.

$450.00

VJ291

  PEACOCK EYE EARRINGS ( Vintage Freirich Peacock Eye Clip Earrings ): These gorgeous Peacock Eye Earrings have the appearance of the Art Nouveau Era Jewelry (1890-1910) which moved from the academic art of the 19th Century to the curved lines of plants and flowers. However they are signed “Freirich”, a company under the name Maison David in France, which was not moved to the US under the Freirich name until the 1920's. The gleaming Peacock Eye Cabochon Stones are made of glass and shimmering blue and green foil – imitating the appearance of the Eyes on Peacock Tail Feathers. They are mounted in beautifully curved low carat gold settings with clips on which I have put new pads. Though not a perfect match with the above Peacock Eye Necklace (VJ290), they go very nicely with it. Add glamour to glamour!

Condition: Excellent.
Size: 1” high, 1 1/8” wide, 1/4” deep.

$200.00

VJ292

  LADY IN FUR ( Antique Victorian Portrait Miniature Pendant ): I have owned and loved a number of 19th Century Portrait Miniatures – rarely knowing the individual's name. This one has been special to me because her name and dates are engraved on the back: “Virginia Victoria Marsh Freeman”, “1826-1897”. I don't really know Mrs. Freeman but I surmise that any woman with 4 names, wearing elegant black fur and worthy of being memorialized by a beautifully painted miniature portrait in such a gorgeous setting must be important! Her portrait, signed by the artist “N. F. Bean”, is mounted in a 14 KT gold setting framed in 59 seed pearls which had the Victorian Mourning Jewelry meaning of tears. It hangs from a gold bale fronted by 6 more seed pearls. Google helped me know her a little bit better. She was born and died in Philadelphia, PA; was married to Walter Jackson Freeman (1825-1896) and had 2 daughters. She and her husband are buried in Rahway Cemetery, Rahway, NJ. We have added a photo of her information and of her grave. Pretty amazing! I'm quite sure she would be pleased if her portrait would be passed on to someone else with my passion for Memento Mori.

Condition: Excellent. Chain not included.
Size: Total length including bale 2 1/4”. Portrait 1 3/4” high, 1 1/2” wide, 1/4” deep.

SOLD!

VJ293

  ART NOUVEAU BEAUTIES ( Antique Art Nouveau Neillo Swiss Pocket Watch / Pendant ): And it keeps on ticking! Yes, this is not only the most beautiful pocket watch I have ever seen (c. 1900), it is still working and keeping perfect time after 119 years! It was made by Huguenin Frères & Co. of Le Locle, Switzerland – right on the French border. The company was founded by the brothers in 1868 as makers of watch cases. Over time they gained world wide fame for their Neillo decorated cases. Neillo consists of putting a black paste or powder on an engraved surface (usually silver) and heating it until it melts, flows into the engraved areas and hardens. The surface is then polished to clean off the smooth silver areas. This watch case has lovely Art Nouveau designs on both front and back consisting of the profile of a beautiful woman's face surrounded by stems and leaves on the front and flowers and leaves on the back. The front is made even more stunning by the addition of a gilded floral hat and necklace. Opening the back reveals a wealth of knowledge about the watch – in French. “ANCRE” (Anchor) means it has a lever escarpment (top notch). “LIGNE DROITE LEVÉES VISIBLES” (Line Right Lifted Visible) relates to the fact that when the winding stem (located by 3:00 on the face) is held in the right hand 12:00 is at the top. “15 RUBIS” means 15 Jewel – the top number included in watches at that time. “REMONTOIR” means it is winder. The inside of both the front and the back covers has their hallmark – the shape of an artist's palate containing “Niel” (for Niello) and “HF” for the company name. In the center is the work “PALLAS” which may be the name of the watch maker – not sure. And below the numbers “4622” and “5”. The face of the watch has Roman numerals, elegant gold hour and minute hands and a small dial with a second hand. The face is covered with celluloid. There is a small switch located 4:00. When moved to the left the winder sets the time – to the right it winds the watch. If you love antique watches or love Art Nouveau Jewelry this is for you. I love Art Nouveau and added a bale to wear it as a pendant.

Condition: Watch – Excellent. Case – Very Good. Light scratches on front and back which do not detract from their beauty. Both latch tightly. Heavy wear of edges. Watch was obviously loved and used extensively. Chain not included.
Size: Watch 2” in diameter, 1/2” deep. 3 3/8” long including bale.

$500.00

VJ294

  TORTOISESHELL BACCHANTE EARRINGS ( Antique Victorian Tortoiseshell Pierced Earrings ): These Antique Earrings (c. 1870-80) feature amazingly detailed faces of Bacchante – the female followers of Bacchus the Roman god of wine and fertility. The remarkably detailed molded faces on the two earrings are different but both have a cluster of grapes in their hair above their foreheads with grape leaves on both sides. I believe the light colored molded areas on both sides of the faces are their curls hanging down. Below each face hangs a graceful amphora – an ancient Greek or Roman jar in which to carry their wine. There are two separate dangles on both sides of each amphora. Tortoiseshell was a popular medium for Victorian jewelry artists. Its versatility, rich colors and light weight made it perfect for earrings. There are gold shepherd's hooks attached to the top of each slipping easily into a pierced ear. Watch them dance as you move!

Condition: Excellent.
Size: 2 3/4” long, 7/8” wide, 1/8” deep.

ON LAYAWAY!

VJ295

  MEDUSA PERFUME BOTTLE ( Antique Art Nouveau Kerr Sterling Silver Perfume Bottle Pendant ): Summer heat proved to be a problem for Victorian ladies. In order to remain fresh smelling they often carried small perfume bottles or flasks either hanging from a chatelaine or as a pendant. Some of the most beautiful of those bottles were made by the William B. Kerr Company of Newark, NJ, established in 1855. He was world famous for his Art Nouveau (1890-1910) elaborate and unique decorative Sterling Silver pieces. This is a rare and wonderful example of his artistic work – a Sterling Silver Perfume Bottle Pendant decorated front and back with a Medusa face. There are typical Art Nouveau swirls of hair above the face, curls on the forehead and snakes entwined down both sides with mouths wide open below. The bottle cap is attached to a chain so as not to get lost. The bottle hangs from two chains attached to a ring above. Kerr's hallmark was a “fasces” - a medieval ax – with three X's on the handle representing leather straps around it. The hallmark can be seen on the mouth of the bottle above “STERLING” and “10”. This bottle makes a beautiful and fascinating pendant bound to draw attention!

Condition: Excellent. Chain not included.
Size: Bottle 3” high, 1 1/2” wide, 3/7” deep. Total length from top of ring 4”.

ON LAYAWAY!

VJ296

  SWEET AS A ROSE ( Antique Victorian Carved Bone Locket / Pendant ): This is a beautifully carved Antique Bone Rose Pendant. The rose itself serves as the swivel cover of a photo bearing locket. Most of the pendant is made up of rose leaves and branches with a bone bale at the top attached to a loop of a branch. I feel quite certain that the celluloid covered photo of a man is original to the locket since the back of the compartment appears to be permanently attached. In the Victorian Language of Flowers the rose means Love, Faith & Devotion. I like to think that some Victorian woman wore this lovely pendant/locket as a sentimental piece for remembrance. I feel quite certain she would be just as happy if you wore it as an ornamental piece.

Condition: Excellent.
Size: Length including bale 2 7/8”, width 1 3/8”, depth 1/2” over rose. Photo compartment 3/4” high, 1/2” wide.

$300.00

VJ297

  DANCING “POOLS OF LIGHT” ( Vintage Art Deco Jewelry Pools of Light Earrings ): Sleek and ethereal, these earrings consist of fabulous crystal orbs known as “pools of light”. It is believed that the source of these beads is the northern slope of Mount Fujiyama in Japan. They were a product of the mount when it erupted in springtime. The crystals then found their way into the stream beds where, over the years, they were polished as they journeyed over pebbles into the foothill river beds. Finally they were polished to perfection in the lapidary shops of Kofu. They possess the unusual optical quality of rotary polarization – when you look through one the image will appear to be upside down and reversed (rotated 180 degrees). Try it! Traditionally they have been treasured – especially by the Chinese who believe that good luck resides in the inner recesses of these orbs. “Pools” were never drilled because it was believed that drilling allowed the good luck to pour out of the crystal. The supply of these wonderful crystals seems to have exhausted itself in the 1930’s. These magical earrings from the 1920's are delightful. They are held by a band of Sterling Silver with engraved flowers on the front and back. A sterling silver shepherd's hook slides easily into your pierced ear. It is difficult to photograph these heavenly “pools” as they often have a grayish appearance. Against bare skin they take on a rainbow of hues. The timeless beauty of these earrings dances with the light. Highly sought-after by collectors – there will be no more mysterious “Pools of Light”. What a story you can tell to admirers!

Condition: Excellent.
Size: Hang 1 1/8” from top of shepherd's hook. Orb is 1/2” in diameter.

ON HOLD!

VJ131

SHIMMERING BLUE BELLE ÉPOQUE ( Edwardian Jewelry Guilloché Locket ): This superb Edwardian shimmering blue guilloché locket is simply the largest and most stunning piece of its kind that I have seen. (c. 1890-1920) Only a confident lady of the Belle Époque era would have worn this large Sterling Silver Stunner. The technique of guilloché enamel features an engraved decoration of geometric design achieved by engine turning. When used as a base for translucent enamel it creates a shimmering effect. The intense deep blue of this locket provides an opulent background for the “garland style” – hand painted pink and pale yellow roses that circle the border of this oval antique locket. Swags of leaves have been painted above the central bouquet of mixed roses. There are tiny gold dot accents on the locket front. The back of the locket is also deep blue enamel over a wave pattern emanating from the center. The good sized pendant ring is marked “935 M” and the pendant itself is jeweler tested as Sterling. The locket interior contains its original inserts and celluloid covers, which have yellowed with time. The hinged closure is firm and tight. These guilloché lockets have become a favorite with collectors. The more complex the design and the more colors used, the more highly the piece is valued. This rich and sumptuous locket will linger in your mind. It is an unforgettable example of Belle Époque extravagance.

Condition: Excellent. A few surface scratches visible only under magnification.
Size: 2 1/4” high, 1 3/4” wide.
SALE!

$650.00

SOLD!

VJ194

SPARKLING PYRAMID OF GARNETS ( Victorian Jewelry Bohemian Garnet Brooch / Pendant): Garnet is the birth stone for January, but desired by all collectors of Victorian Jewelry. The stone received its name from the Latin word for pomegranate because it reminded early scientists of pomegranate seeds. The 19th Century was the peak of Bohemian Garnet Jewelry – mined from the mountains of Bohemia (present-day western Czech Republic). Placed closely together, the garnets produced a brighter and a deeper color than when set singularly. So it is with this fiery Victorian Antique Brooch, set with a marvelous raised cluster of garnets upon garnets. (c. 1870) Oval in form, the deep wine garnet stones are placed in a tier six layers deep, producing a highly domed effect of brilliantly flashing garnets. All of the stones are faceted and appear in four different sizes. The pendant/brooch still retains its original circular drop. The circular, free swinging drop is a beautiful accent to this large piece. The gems are all closed back and, as is characteristic for this type of jewelry, have all been set into rose gold gilt over silver (commonly referred to as “garnet gold”). The reverse of this brooch/pendant must have an interesting history. At some time the elongated pin stem has been shortened and the original C clasp has a “capped” housing for the tip of the pin so that it will not catch or pull on fabric if worn as a pendant. There is also a hinged pendant loop added at the top – so many ladies now prefer pendants. You would need to add a ring or bale to make this piece hang properly from a chain. During the Victorian era, Western cultures believed that garnets would enrich the blood and provide the wearer with a long & healthy life. Highly coveted by collectors, this is a dazzling, sparkling example of antique garnet jewelry at its best.

Condition: Excellent. There are no missing garnets. One or two of the small ones may be replacements.
Size: 2 1/4" long, including drop, 1 1/2" wide, 1/2" deep.
SALE!

$550.00

$200.00

VJ275

ROYAL PRINCE ( Antique Victorian Portrait Miniature Pendant ): What a precious picture! I purchased this at the NY Triple Pier Show many years ago from one of the premier Portrait Miniature dealers. Miniatures were very popular in the 1800's before photography took over. This young lad (c. 1880-90) was from the collection of the 4th Duchess of Kent – Princess Marina (1906-68). You can see it is signed “A. Alaux”. Alexander Alaux was born in France in 1851. His family emigrated to New Orleans in 1855. He studied art and was considered a progeny as a miniaturist, winning several medals as a teen. In order to improve his skills he moved to Brussels in the late 1860's and attended the Acadamie Royale des Beaux Arts. He became a favorite of Leopold II from whom he received a Gold Medal. The quality of the painting of this miniature is amazing. Unless you use a loop it looks like a photograph. Judging from this boy's attire he is a member of a royal family. I'd like to think he was the son of King Leopold but the dealer did not know his identity – and if she had I could not have afforded it! Another factor that made it more affordable is that the celluloid covered compartment on the back should have contained a lock of his hair, but it is empty. The painting itself is well protected by a celluloid cover. Please note the gorgeous frame in the close-ups, made up of engraved flowers and foliage. Because the surface areas are gold and the deeper areas black I think it is “rolled gold”, a layer of gold over silver or some other metal. The decorated bale is of the same metal. I truly hope someone will adopt and love this young boy, as I have.

Condition: Excellent. Chain not included.
Size: 3 1/4” high including bale. Not including bale 2 3/4” high, 2 1/4” wide, 3/8” deep.

SALE!

$1000.00

$700.00

VJ278

AMETHYST RING ( Antique Victorian Amethyst and Gold Ring ): Both a beautiful Amethyst Stone and a beautiful Gold Ring. (c. 1890-1900) Amethysts have had several meanings down through history, but always highly valued. The ancient Greeks thought it would inhibit intoxication and it translates as “not drunken”. As a symbol and color of royalty it has always had a prominent place on crowns, scepters and rings. To the ancient Christians it symbolized allegiance to Christ. The Chinese felt it would increase wealth and it has always been felt to have healing properties – removing stress and anxiety. The 14 KT gold band, decorated with black enamel, holds the large amethyst by six prongs. The underside of the stone is multi-faceted causing it to gleam in the light. The front flat surface is decorated by a gold twig with five leaves. In the center of each leaf is a tiny faceted clear crystal. Amazing workmanship! Ring size 6 3/4. Though an antique it can beautifully enhance almost anything you may wish to wear on an evening out – and draw many compliments.

Condition: Excellent.
Size: Crown 3/4” long, 1/2” wide, 3/8” deep. Band tapers from 3/8” to 1/8” in back. Ring size 6 3/4.

SALE!

$450.00

$300.00

 

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